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Gen Z Loves an Aesthetic, But Madonna Never Had Just One.

allure.com

Gen Z Loves an Aesthetic, But Madonna Never Had Just One.

Madonna knows how to cause a stir at the MTV Video Music Awards. She rolled on stage in a wedding dress for the first ever VMAs in 1984. In 2003, she returned in a tuxedo to make out with Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears while presenting (in this case, Britney and Christina wore the bridal-inspired attire). And last night, Madonna tromped out, clad in leather and fishnets, adding another image to a VMA highlight reel.

Each of these uniquely crafted acts points to the shapeshifting style that is unmistakably Madonna. It’s true that with the release of Confessions II, Madge’s 15th studio album, she’s both forging a new path and remaking an old one (it’s the sequel to, Confessions on a Dance Floor, from 2005). This album wasn’t some half-baked sequel; it arrived at the VMAs with 13 nominations and left with seven wins. As a Gen Zer myself, I know some of my peers place Madonna in the same vague historical category as landlines and smoking indoors, but it’s increasingly difficult to ignore her longevity and constant innovation..

With Confessions II, Madonna isn’t so much inventing a new woman as rifling through the closets of her past-selves and styling them together. The visual language is softer and more overtly feminine than the original Confessions on a Dance Floor: boudoir-evoking pinks, purples, satin, lace. In place of the Farrah Fawcett-ish red-blonde curls and glittery disco glamour of 2005, the Confessions II imagery is more polished with luminous skin and defined eyes, offset by her deliberately less “done” coiffure. The costumes are archival Madonna, pulled from her own collection, sending any Gen Z vintage lover into a tizzy. What’s interesting about this revival is that, just as her stock surges with my former classmates, we’ve simultaneously become obsessed with having one singular aesthetic. But Madonna’s genius is that she never had just one, and there’s a reason The New York Times dubbed her “Pop’s Headmistress of Reinvention.”

As a result, Madonna’s many transformations are now sealed into the cultural Pinterest pantheon. The teased hair and bows of “Like a Virgin,” Marilyn-style curls for “Material Girl,” the severe sexuality of Erotica, the ethereal earth mother of Ray of Light. What matters isn’t that these looks present as social media candy or mood board fodder, it’s that each stands in sharp contrast to the safe, social-media minded bets many stars make today.

Modern-day musicians still reinvent themselves musically, but seldom visually. We call them “eras,” but there is typically still a signature fashion and beauty aesthetic that follows the artist regardless of the LP. Even one of music's most forward-facing artists, Taylor Swift, has sported her perfectly coiffed blonde bangs and signature red lip throughout each era.

Just look at the role that social media plays in the creation of celebrity today. Across every app, your face becomes your logo, where you can both create a product beyond your métier, and sell it there, too. Rihanna, Beyoncé, Ariana Grande, Selena Gomez and more are proof that beauty is no longer just an accessory to the music; it can be a business in itself. When a signature look can become a tutorial, campaign, or product launch, radically abandoning it starts to feel less like reinvention and more like messing with your “brand identity.” Madonna herself had a skin care range once, MDNA Skin. If her oeuvre says anything, it’s that Madonna simply always had more to say.

That feels revolutionary against today’s backdrop of facial conformity where beauty culture increasingly pushes us toward a narrow, standardized ideal of “perfection.” Social media acts a guidebook in this sense, telling us how to look “our best,” “build our brand,” and sand down the characteristics that make us individual in the pursuit of high engagement. As social media becomes the lens through which we decide what we want to look like, it’s relatively dissatisfying that our role models in music, the people given the biggest platforms and stages to experiment, are increasingly following from the same beauty playbook.

Maybe that’s what Madonna offers us now: a reminder that inspiration is not the same thing as imitation, and even as we remix or revisit various makeup techniques, we aren’t doing so to telegraph the same messages Madonna did, or any message at all. Her change-ups were never just about a novel way of doing our hair, or provocation for provocation’s sake, it was about using beauty as a language for whatever ethos she felt fit.

As a generation, we are enamored with the idea of the “archival,” which is often just a glamorous way of saying “something that existed before I was born” and the peacocking of a broad cultural knowledge. We’ve spent the past few years dragging out wired headphones, hair rollers, and undeniably uncomfortable low-rise jeans. In our age of optimization, few acknowledge the impracticality of these choices (besides former SNL star Chloe Fineman on the jeans front, that is). What the renewal of those trends convey, however, is more about nostalgia than artistry or social change or pushing the zeitgeist forward.

Madonna has spent her career borrowing, referencing, resurrecting and reinventing, but never at the expense of distinctly looking and feeling like herself.

Ever the re-inventor, Madonna’s beauty identity is defined by her willingness to abandon it: brunette to blonde, virgin to dominatrix, Old Hollywood bombshell to spiritualist. And these transformations weren't simply exercises in looking different. In the 1984 release of the video for “Like a Prayer,” Madonna traded her platinum Marilyn look for dark curls and a slip dress as she danced in front of burning crosses and kissed a Black saint, using her image alongside religious imagery to address race, religion, sexuality, and injustice. The video drew the ire of the Vatican, but it also showed that when Madonna changed how she looked, we could grasp her message using more than just our ears. But this instinct extended well beyond a single music video. She made out with not one, but two, women at the 2003 VMAs, dressed as a groom and flanked by her two brides. Against that history, the TikTok “clean girl,” “mob wife,” or “office siren” aesthetics that my generation cycle through feel comparatively hollow. While Gen Z is mastering the art of adopting a look, we’ve not necessarily made it mean something.

What we have to learn from Madonna is less about her activism, or even how radically she expanded what a pop star could be, but what pop music could actually mean. Before she sings a lyric, the hair, makeup, clothes and character have already told you she has something new to add to the conversation. Throughout her career, Madonna has treated beauty as a language rather than a superficial endpoint. Looking good was never her whole assignment, but looking different could challenge what was expected of her, attract attention for what she wanted to say, and, once her point was made, she could find a new message and a new look to champion it.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t around for many of Madonna’s incarnations, but I always felt connected to them. As a little “spitfire,” also known as “a handful” in teacher communities, I related to the indignation of “Don’t Tell Me.” Later, I shocked camp counselors with my rendition of “Give Me All Your Luvin’” at a talent show. By the fourth grade, I was attending the MDNA Tour at Yankee Stadium in my favorite sparkly jean skirt, a modest get-up compared to the harness and ball gag of my 62-year-old seatmate. Madonna’s greatest contribution to modern pop might be the one thing today’s pop stars are increasingly discouraged from doing: becoming someone completely new.

For a generation with more beauty inspiration at our fingertips than any before us, that kind of experimentation should be easier than ever. Instead, social media gives us an endless catalog of ways to transform ourselves, while making us hyperaware of which transformations are flattering, clickable, and on-brand. The wisdom I hope we learn from it is that what we look like is inextricably linked to what we have to say, and, on a larger scale, what we can create. Madonna offers a lesson in the power of appearance beyond likes, follows, and commercial benefit. Rather than chasing a trend, maybe Gen Z can take a cue from thinking about what we want to say—and how we amplify that with how we look.

For more timely pop culture analysis:

• What the Shitty Hyrox Incident Tells Us About the State of Our Manners• Dolly Parton Explains The Evolution of Her Look• The Practical Magic 2 Ageism Controversy Misses the Point

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