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Goddess Braids Might Be the Most Divine Take on Knotless Braids Yet

allure.com

Goddess Braids Might Be the Most Divine Take on Knotless Braids Yet

Have you ever learned the name of a hairstyle and immediately thought, Yep, that makes perfect sense? That was my exact reaction to goddess braids. The flowing, curl-accented plaits look like they should be worn by a deity—one that’s fed succulent fruits as she gazes down from the heavens. Fortunately for us mere mortals, goddess braids are very much an earthly delight.

Before we go any further, what exactly are goddess braids? Well, it depends on who you ask. Unlike cornrows or two-strand twists, which have clear, specific definitions, goddess braids are more nebulous. “The terms ‘goddess braids’ and ‘boho braids’ are often used interchangeably, and their meanings can vary between braiders,” says Jess Rutana, a London-based braider.

While both goddess braids and boho braids are knotless styles with loose human or synthetic curls braided into some or all of the plaits, the amount of loose hair and where it’s placed is usually what’s up for debate. To Susy Oludele, a braider based in New York City, “goddess braids take only a few curls. The braid stays defined and the finish is clean,” while boho braids use a lot of hair. “The curls [in boho braids] carry the whole style, and you get that bold, textured look.”

Rutana has the opposite take. At her salon, Zuri Hair Studio, “goddess braids contain significantly more loose human hair, creating a fuller finish where the braids are less visible,” she says. See what I mean?

Regardless of curl count and placement, one thing just about everyone can agree on is that goddess braids are really having a moment. “It’s because they offer versatility, longevity, and a little more dimension than traditional knotless braids,” says Shanna St. Cyr Alexander, a New York-based braider.

The knotless installation provides lower tension than the thick Poetic Justice–era plaits that dominated the ’90s and were attached to the root with knots. There’s “less weight, less pressure on the scalp, [and] less tension on the edges,” says Oludele. “We’ve all watched what heavy styles do to a hairline over time, and women are done with it.” Meanwhile, the loose curls add fullness and provide some visual movement. Simply put, “Goddess braids give you a full, beautiful look without your head hurting for three days after you leave the chair,” says Oludele.

As with any braiding service, your “natural hair gets cleansed, deep-conditioned, and stretched or blow-dried first,” says Oludele. Then, your braider will feed in the braiding hair and loose curls; again, the amount really depends on your desired finish. ”The curly pieces go in while you are braiding, worked into the braid as you go,” says Oludele. “Depending on the braider and the desired finish, synthetic hair, human hair, or a combination of both may be used,” says Rutana.

To ballpark it, “goddess braids run $300 to $500,” says Oludele. It depends on the market rate where you live and the type of hair your braider uses. If you use only synthetic hair, says braider Ariana Greene, you can expect to pay less. To avoid surprises at the register, Oludele suggests asking your braider if hair is included in the initial quote before you even sit in the chair: “That’s where people get caught.”

Oludele says to oil your scalp two to three times a week and to wash your hair every two to three weeks with diluted shampoo in an applicator bottle (focused on the scalp, not the hair). “A dirty scalp breaks hair,” she cautions. Camille Rose’s Rosemary Oil Strengthening Hair + Scalp Drops include soothing rosemary and peppermint oils; for shampoo, try Aunt Jackie's Grapeseed Style and Shine Recipes Power Wash Intense Moisture Clarifying Hair Shampoo, which contains apple cider vinegar and aloe, both of which have antibacterial and antimicrobial properties.

If you opted for human hair, you can expect a slightly more involved maintenance routine. “The loose human hair strands require regular care because they [are more likely to] tangle if neglected,” says Rutana. “I recommend gently separating the loose strands and using a soft-bristled detangling brush. Start at the ends and work upward, holding the hair close to the braided section to avoid pulling on the braid or natural hair.”

You can use a leave-in conditioner, such as Shea Moisture’s Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Leave-In Conditioner, for a little refresh. Alexander also suggests “a serum to keep the hair looking shiny and help prevent matting.” (Rutana recommends L’Oréal Paris’ Elvive Extraordinary Oil Miracle Hair Serum “for smoothing the loose hair and adding shine.”)

Overnight, “I would advise sleeping with a satin pillowcase, along with a satin scarf, and splitting your hair into two sections and putting it into braids or twists,” says Greene. Kitsch’s XL Satin Bonnet for Sleeping is a nice, oversized bonnet that easily fits all of my knotless braids (and I have a pretty big noggin).

And while some people might be prone to wearing protective styles for months on end (it’s me, I’m people), it’s important to take down your braids after six to eight weeks. “A protective style should give your hair back to you healthier than it came,” says Oludele.

Ahead, some divine goddess braids inspiration.

Not quite as small as micro braids, but still easy to sweep into an updo, small goddess braids provide plenty of versatility. Smaller styles also tend to have more longevity, looking neater for longer (as long as you're maintaining them, of course).

One step up on the size spectrum, situated, as the name suggests, between small and medium, smedium braids are great for anyone seeking a fuller look. And restless girlies, take note: This size also takes less time to install than its smaller counterparts.

One of the classic ways to keep your box braids out of your face, half-up, half-down hairstyles, which are especially stunning on curly goddess styles. I personally gravitate toward this style as an excuse to use all the pretty claw clips I’ve racked up over the years.

Gathering your small or smedium goddess braids into a ponytail can be as pretty as it is practical. You can wrap a handful of braids around the base of your ponytail for a regal vibe, or leave out a few face-framing pieces at the front for a romantic look.

Who says your braids have to hit your waist? A goddess-braided lob is a fun, protective way to wear one of the trendiest haircuts of the moment.

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