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We Tried Olaplex’s First Curl Shampoo and Conditioner On 3 Hair Textures

allure.com

We Tried Olaplex’s First Curl Shampoo and Conditioner On 3 Hair Textures

I cried in the Uber on the way home, thinking, my curls are ruined. After a silk press gone wrong in 2022—too many passes of the flatiron, enough to see steam rising—I was left with heat-damaged hair that looked limp and lifeless. Before cutting it all off, I turned to Olaplex. I’d never used the brand, but I’d heard it could revive damaged hair. After a few washes with the No.3 Hair Perfector and the brand’s shampoo and conditioner, my curls started to bounce back. I still trimmed the dead ends (sadly, they were too far gone), but since then, Olaplex has been a staple in my routine.

In the years that followed, the brand expanded its bond-building lineup into curl territory, including a salon-exclusive treatment that left my curls ultra-bouncy, and a defining gel that’s powered more than a few twist-outs. The technology behind it all is what Olaplex is known for: repairing disulfide bonds in the hair fiber to strengthen strands from within. Now the brand is expanding its curl line to include the new No.4 Hydrating Curl Shampoo and No.5 Hydrating Curl Conditioner. I put them to the test—alongside three other Allure staffers with different curl patterns, from loose waves to tight coils—to see how the products stack up against the brand’s original shampoo and conditioner and other bond-building washday duos for curls.

Before we get into our reviews, however, it’s worth setting the stage for what these new products are and what they’re promising.

The original Olaplex shampoo and conditioner are designed to strengthen strands (thanks to the brand’s signature bond-building technology) while preventing frizz and gently cleansing the hair.

According to a press release from the company, the Olaplex No.4 Hydrating Curl Shampoo and No.5 Hydrating Curl Conditioner do all of the above, but with added benefits for curls. This includes providing “a more defined curl pattern in one use and, over time, seven days of hydration, 50% less frizz, even in high humidity, and easier detangling.”

Before offering insight into the new formulas, cosmetic chemist Lily Njoroge shares this disclaimer: “An ingredient list can give us a strong sense of how a formula should theoretically perform, but ingredient concentrations and how they interact with each other ultimately determine whether a product delivers on its claims.”

Keeping that in mind, Njoroge explains that the formula leans heavily on moisture-retaining ingredients: hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, a modified, positively charged form of hyaluronic acid, and glycerin to support both hydration and strand manageability. “Hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride [in the formula] attracts and binds water while also providing a protective layer that helps the hair retain moisture even in changing humidity,” she explains.

The shampoo is also boosted with time-released emollients like avocado oil and sunflower seed wax to soften and hydrate strands, which can make detangling easier.

As for curl definition, the formula achieves that with polymers—acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, polyquaternium-11, and polyglycerin-3—that “help define and hold curl shape while improving elasticity,” says Njoroge, though results can vary depending on factors like curl pattern, porosity, and water quality.

Njoroge points out that the shampoo also includes ingredients that support the Olaplex frizz-reducing claims. “Polyquaternium-7 works alongside polyquaternium-11, hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, and acrylates copolymer, helping to form humidity-resistant barriers,” she says. This barrier keeps moisture from getting past the cuticle, which keeps stands smooth and frizz-free.

The conditioner shares many of the same ingredients and claims as the shampoo, but the feel is noticeably different. “That’s largely because of how the conditioner base is built,” says Njoroge. She points to behentrimonium methosulfate (one of her favorite conditioning agents), which “coats the hair shaft to reduce friction and static without causing buildup, while delivering the slip that makes detangling easier, especially for curly and coily hair, where friction can lead to breakage,” says Njoroge.

To further prevent breakage, the formula features brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine (a conditioning agent derived from rapeseed oil), which helps reduce flyaways and stress on the hair (from brushing and all the other ways we agitate our hair while styling). Hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride, a conditioning and moisture-binding ingredient, also plays a role in keeping hair flexible and less prone to breakage.

Annie Blay-Tettey’s hair before using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

And after using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

I typically wash my hair once a week—or every other week if life gets hectic. By the time I tested the new Olaplex shampoo and conditioner, it had been a full two weeks, so my hair was more than ready for a cleanse. After taking down my old plaits, I fully saturated my hair with warm water and went in with the shampoo. It lathered immediately—rich, foamy, and satisfying. I know that more lather doesn't necessarily mean cleaner hair, but I do appreciate it, especially since I prefer to shampoo just once and really work it in. I spent a few minutes massaging in about a tablespoon of product before rinsing, and my hair felt clean without that overly stripped, squeaky feel—a promising start.

Next came the conditioner. I used a couple of squeezes, working it through from roots to ends. It felt fairly straightforward; nothing particularly stood out in terms of slip, so detangling wasn’t as seamless as I would have liked, but it got the job done without making me reach for another product. Once I had rinsed and towel-dried my hair, it felt clean and lightly moisturized. I also noticed less frizz than I typically do post-wash, and my strands felt soft to the touch.

I started styling with the Rizos Curls 6-in-1 Styling Cream, working it evenly through my hair. Then I went in with the Olaplex No.10 Bond Shaper Curl Defining Gel, applying it in sections and raking it through with my Felicia Leatherwood Detangling Brush before twisting each section.

The real test came a few days later at the salon with hairstylist Vernon François. The pro sectioned off the front of my hair and blow-dried it, prepping with Olaplex No.6 Bond Smoother and finishing with a few drops of Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil. He then cornrowed my hair into 10 rows—without using any gel.

I’ll admit, I was skeptical. Skipping gel sounded like a fast track to frizz, but he urged me to trust the frizz-reducing claims of the shampoo and conditioner, even days after washing. And he was right. My cornrows came out neat and polished, with little visible frizz. The back, which he left in a twist-out, looked just as good—bouncy, voluminous, and, again, impressively frizz-free.

Overall, I’d reach for this duo again. It didn’t make my curls look their absolute best right after washing, but that’s not really what I expect from a shampoo and conditioner. What stood out was how my hair held up days later. For me, a good washday duo should cleanse well and deliver enough moisture to set the stage for styling—and this pair does exactly that.

Shanna Shipin’s hair before using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

And after using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

Shanna Shipin, commerce director

I put the full Olaplex curl lineup to the test for a week, washing my hair twice, and swapping out my usual products for the shampoo, conditioner, gel, and oil. What surprised me most was how much the shampoo and conditioner elevated my routine. Together, they noticeably reduced frizz and boosted hydration, leaving my curls looking juicier, bouncier, and more defined. I even paired them with non-Olaplex stylers to see if they were doing the heavy lifting—and they were.

The shampoo lathers easily (I usually double-cleanse but didn’t feel the need to here), and the conditioner offers enough slip to make detangling smoother in the shower. And as someone who knows exactly how to create frizz—over-tousling or blasting my diffuser on high heat—my hair held up far better than it typically would.

The gel is a lighter hold, which works well for my texture, and the oil remains a staple for breaking a cast (the process of gently squeezing, gel-coated curls to soften the stiff, crunchy shell that forms while drying) and separating curls without weighing them down (the subtle scent is a nice bonus). I’m impressed by the entire lineup, but the shampoo and conditioner are the real standouts—and the ones I’ll be reaching for most.

Giancarlos Kunhardt's hair before using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

And after using the Olaplex Curl Shampoo and Conditioner.

Giancarlos Kunhardt, associate visuals editor

I tested the Olaplex Hydrating Curl Shampoo and Conditioner on about a week and a half’s worth of buildup from layers of leave-in, gel, and a rotation of wash-and-gos, pineapple buns, and, eventually, a slicked-back style right before washday.

The shampoo and conditioner duo did exactly what I needed them to do: cleanse thoroughly without stripping my curls. I’ve used the original Olaplex shampoo before, and this performs just as well. I can’t say the difference between the two is especially noticeable, but on my curly-coily texture, both deliver solid results.

After washing and conditioning my hair, I used the Olaplex No.10 Bond Shaper Curl Defining Gel, which gives my wash-and-gos a soft, touchable hold. It’s not quite heavy-duty enough for my slick-backs; my texture needs something stronger to keep flyaways fully in check.

If you’re someone who enjoys an abundant lather from their shampoo, you’ll love Olaplex No.4. “The surfactants tell you a lot about the sensory experience Olaplex was going for,” says Njoroge, who explains that the brand formulated the product with a combination of surfactants (including sodium c

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