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Inside Sarah Pidgeon’s $10,000-Plus Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy Hair Transformation

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Inside Sarah Pidgeon’s $10,000-Plus Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy Hair Transformation

In The Scenario, reporter Kirbie Johnson takes readers behind the scenes of the buzziest movies and TV shows to reveal how the best wigs, special effects makeup, and more are created. For this edition, Johnson spoke with Barry Lee Moe, Kari Hill, and Alex Pardoe—the hair team behind Sarah Pidgeon’s look in “Love Story"—to break down the cost of becoming Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.

When Ryan Murphy Productions, the team behind FX’s much-anticipated limited series Love Story, shared a first-look image of actor Sarah Pidgeon as Carolyn Bessette-Kenedy, it caused a public hair crisis. Bessette-Kennedy is an icon because of her effortless style, but anyone with eyes could see the wig placed on Pidgeon was anything but: It was too blonde, too too flat, too fake. The wig looked nothing like CBK's buttery '90 blonde, and it sent the internet into a tailspin.

Murphy would later reveal to Puck News that he posted the photos to get the press off the actors’ backs, but the decision had the opposite effect. The outcry to CBK’s fashion and beauty was fast and fierce, resulting in the production company removing the images from the internet and bringing in a new behind-the-scenes team. “We knew that the wig wasn't going to sell the energy of this,” says Barry Lee Moe, Pidgeon’s hairstylist on the project, who started on the show after Wiggate, along with costume designer Rudy Mance, colorist Kari Hill, and extension specialist Alex Pardoe. “We came in as ‘Team CBK,’ and had a week to overhaul everything. With Carolyn, she is the epitome of lived-in luxury—easy, effortless, carefree—and it needed to feel like it was her hair.”

Moe, who also transformed Lily James in her turn as Pamela Anderson in Pam & Tommy, said it could have been possible to craft the perfect wig for Pidgeon if they had more time. But given the time constraints, they had to build the character utilizing Pidgeon’s natural hair. “We were looking at a six-month shoot and changing the hair color throughout,” says Moe. “[We wanted] Sarah's hair to be healthy. It had to look effortless. It had to look real. So how do we get there?”

The trio had their work cut out for them. Pidgeon came in with a brunette bob, which, given the length of her natural hair, could be detected if left to inexperienced stylists. The passage of time also posed a challenge, as the bleach and dye used to create Bessette-Kennedy’s sunny blonde in the ’90s have come a long way. Everything from how Moe styled the hair and the color technique Hill used, to the amount of hair used in each bonded extension Pardoe applied, had to be purposeful and exact.

“As a colorist, you don't know 100% what that next outcome is until you do it,” says Hill, noting they were aiming for specific CBK photo references, not just a general vibe. “Sarah not only has naturally dark hair, but she had dark color on her hair. We had to assess both and then slowly take it from one step to the next.” Hill used Schwarzkopf Blondeme 9+ Premium Lightener and Igora Vibrance toner with her signature foiled cashmere technique, layering the color over two days for a total of more than 24 hours in the salon: Twenty hours of color and four hours of extension application. “The first day, I think we were there for almost 14 hours,” says Moe. “The second day, almost 12 hours.”

When filming started, which sees Bessette-Kennedy pre-wedding and with more of a root, Hill flew in from Los Angeles on weekends to give Pidgeon touchups every six weeks. Toward the end of production, however, she touched up her roots every three weeks to achieve Carolyn’s more polished, Kennedy-esque coif.

Pidgeon's hair color before her character's wedding to JFK Jr.

Pidgeon's hair color after her character's wedding to JFK Jr.

To make it look as if it were Pidgeon’s real hair, Pardoe applied an estimated 400 microbonded K-tip extensions—naturally flowing, realistic-looking extensions bonded to the natural hair with keratin adhesive—from his company, The Anti-Co. He used 22-inch, virgin, ethically sourced Slavic hair in four to five different shades of blonde, cutting the bonds into smaller pieces so the amount of extensions matched the amount of natural hair with a 1:1 ratio.

“If you're buying extension hair that is already pre-tipped, most of it comes in one-gram strands,” says Pardoe. “I was cutting her bonds down into thirds, so each strand was around .3 grams per strand.” Each extension strand contained 30 or 40 hairs on it, which Pardoe added to the same amount of Pidgeon’s natural hair, so she wouldn't feel the weight of it. “Sarah's hair could support [the extensions] because after six months of filming, her natural hair was a good two to three inches longer than where we started. And it was healthy.”

To marry Pidgeon’s natural hair and extensions, Moe had her sleep in braids, and then he would apply Unite 7Seconds Detangler afterwards to moisturize and set them—a trick he recommends to any extension client to help sell that it’s their real hair. “Sometimes, when you're trying to blend extensions with flat irons and blow-dryers, the [shorter, natural hair] still pops out, or it wants to kick into the neck,” says Moe. The braids help blend the hair seamlessly, and when needed, he used Trademark Beauty’s Babe Waves X double-barrel iron to further marry the pieces, then the Hot Tools Nano Ceramic Curling Iron to add curls randomly throughout the hair for an “un-uniform” look.

The illusion, however, still wasn’t complete. Moe would then lightly mist Pidgeon’s hair with water and use the tools to break up the waves to give them a less-styled, more natural appearance. He added Unite Texturiza Spray to give that wild effect to her hair in the earlier years, and had Pidgeon flip her hair over so he could work on the natural hair underneath. “I would take a blow-dryer and smooth that short length into the extensions so that when she flipped back up, she'd have all this volume, and those pieces would be incorporated,” says Moe.

It was a huge transformation that, should you want to replicate it, is also pricy—especially if you’re going from a short brown bob to full, long, Bessette-Kennedy-blonde as Pidgeon did. “It was a big expense because of the time involved and the amount of work that needed to be done,” says Moe. We probably did five color processes in two days. When you start adding it all up, you're talking tens of thousands of dollars.”

However, Moe notes that this type of expense isn’t sticker shock to him, having been a hair designer on many television and film projects. “I’m used to paying anywhere between $8,000 and $15,000 for a custom, hand-tied wig, and I would say [the transformation we did] was close to the cost of buying two wigs,” he says. “To me, it was an expense that was on par with what I would normally spend to finance a wig for a show, with the maintenance obviously adding to the cost. It was expensive, and it looks expensive.” As it should, when the blonde in question is one of the most recognizable women in American history, with all eyes on her once again.

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