Calico Hair Is This Summer’s Wildest Color Trend
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In 2022, I declared myself over nostalgic beauty trends, worried that the aesthetic of the decade would be defined solely by references to the past (with little looking to the future). But a multicolor hair trend that’s taken over my feeds has me almost regretting my words.
Calico hair is a new-ish trend that may remind you of the chunky highlights of the early aughts. (Remember Kelly Clarkson’s thick streaks of color?) It’s aptly named for the tricolor fur of a calico cat and typically features blonde, brown, copper, red, and/or black. Hauppauge, New York-based colorist Meaghan Masterson thinks it likely took off because it’s a statement comprised mostly of natural hues.
While this look involves a simple palette, the uniqueness of a cat’s coat inspires infinite color combinations and placements. I’ve seen many takes on TikTok and Instagram: Some folks opt for peekaboo patches of blonde, brown, and copper that are only revealed when you lift up the top layer of hair. Others go for bolder versions with patches or stripes of blonde, orange, and red splattered throughout their hair. I’ve even spotted calico-fied boho box braids.
If you’re thinking of trying calico hair, here’s what you can expect: Typically, stylists will want a consultation ahead of your actual appointment. “Everyone’s vision of calico hair is very different,” says Lois Bonsu, a London-based hairstylist specializing in textured hair. While the trend works for a range of lengths, curl types, and densities, this part of the process shouldn’t be skipped or rushed as it helps ensure the outcome is exactly what you want.
If you have medium-to-long hair, you’re the ideal candidate for this trend, explains Bonsu. The longer your hair, the easier it is to section and place the color. If you have short hair, it’s not impossible, as you’ll see in our photo inspiration below, you just may be limited in color and placement options.
Maelee Baxter, a Gainesville, Florida-based hairstylist and colorist, suggests that if you have straight or wavy hair, you may want to consider stripes of color for a more striking look. “If you have kinky or curly hair, going for more of a grid pattern or abstract blocking of the color can [have a] higher impact, especially because you can see more of the interior layering and texture with curlier hair,” she says. Bonsu adds that “on textured hair, it looks like an actual calico cat. You can really see the vision coming true.”
On the day of your appointment, your colorist will begin by sectioning your hair, taking note of which areas will be dyed. If you have dark hair, those areas will need to be lifted to a blonde shade. Bonsu says the hair is then rinsed and blow-dried before it’s dyed. You can expect this process to take between three and six hours, depending on your texture and length. Bonsu says she’ll do reparative treatments for textured hair because it tends to be drier and more fragile than straighter strands.
Calico hair, like the feline it was inspired by, needs love and attention. Try not to wash your hair more than once a week. If you have fine hair or a scalp that tends to get oily, Bonsu suggests trying to stretch the time between washes to at least three days. Temple,Texas-based hairstylist Raven Carnes adds that, after shampooing and conditioning, you might want to do a final rinse with cold waters. “This will help [preserve] the longevity of the color as well as prevent any potential bleeding from the copper or dark sections onto the blonde,” she explains.
New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Ellen Marmur agrees that the temperature of the water can affect how much your hair color fades. “When exposed to warm or hot water, the [hair] cuticle cells become more pliable and may lift slightly,” she says, which can release color molecules. “In contrast, cold water exposure induces cuticle contraction. The cuticle cells lay flatter against the hair shaft, creating a smoother surface,” helping lock in color and create shine.
And you’re going to want to stock your shower with color-safe shampoo. Bonsu suggests Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate range. We also like the Nexxus Color Assure Shampoo, which is formulated with strengthening amino acids, which your hair could use after you’ve bleached and/or dyed it.
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Nexxus
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Walmart (16.5 oz.)
You’ll also want to saturate your hair with masks and treatments at least once a month. Carnes recommends K18’s Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask, a bond-building mask that Allure editors have seen smooth their color-treated, brittle strands. For a traditional moisturizing formula, I recommend the Best of Beauty Award-winning Fekkai Super Strength + Repair Mask.
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Bonsu suggests touch-ups every six weeks. Those with curly or coily hair might be able to stretch the time between touchups, says Baxter, as the “tightness of the texture almost hides the [growing] roots a little bit more. The curls tend to shrink.” If you decide to let your hair grow out for more than a month, be prepared for a longer touch-up appointment, as it can be more challenging to match the multiple colors to their original placements if you have a lot of growth, Baxter explains. You might also need time for additional lightening if you have dark roots.
The multicolor mix of calico colors might take some back to the early 2000s, but this version of chunky highlights firmly belongs to the 2020s. Ahead, enjoy ideas for different hair textures, lengths, and densities.
Read more about hair trends:
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