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No, You Shouldn't Inject a Peptide to Get Tan

allure.com

No, You Shouldn't Inject a Peptide to Get Tan

It’s peak summer, which means sunny skies, lemonade stands, half-day Fridays, and for many people who have yet to grasp the very real dangers of unsafe sun exposure, tanning. It’s a topic we’ve written extensively about for years, most recently the concerning uptick in tanning amongst young people and ever-changing regulations for tanning beds. Despite the fact that people know tanning is dangerous and can lead to skin damage, skin cancer, and even death, they’re still doing it—and now, potentially injecting themselves with a currently banned peptide called Melanotan II to stand in for a sun tan… or amplify the sun’s rays for an even deeper bronze.

Peptides have become increasingly popular in recent years, driven by the stratospheric rise of injectable GLP-1s for weight loss and a fleet of gray market peptides claiming to help with post-workout recovery, hormone balance, hair loss, and skin health. A handful of currently restricted peptides are up for review, with a meeting of the FDA’s Pharmacy Compounding Advisory Committee set for mid-July. Melanotan II—also called “the Barbie drug”—is one such peptide on the list; it was previously banned, but could potentially be approved or unrestricted after said meeting.

Obviously, dermatologists and anti-tanning organizations have a lot of thoughts about Melanotan II and its potential impact on tanning culture, and they’re very concerned about the outcome of this meeting, not to mention how easy it is to acquire peptides online. The Skin Cancer Foundation recently issued a statement from its president, Deborah S. Sarnoff, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of dermatology at Cosmetique Dermatology, Laser & Plastic Surgery in New York, saying the organization “strongly discourages the use of Melanotan II and other unapproved tanning agents marketed as shortcuts to achieving darker skin.”

But wait a second: how can a peptide make you tan in the first place, and how is the sun involved, if at all? According to Jenna Queller, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWorks in Boca Raton, Florida, Melanotan II is a synthetic peptide designed to mimic alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (also known as α-MSH), which she describes as “a naturally occurring hormone that stimulates melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin.” By activating these receptors, the peptide can increase melanin production and thus make skin look more tan.

Though Melanotan II promises to make you look tan without soaking up the sunbed light or laying out, many Melanotan II users are using it as a tool to speed up the sun’s rays. “It’s important to understand that increased pigmentation does not eliminate the harmful effects of UV exposure,” Dr. Queller says. “Many users still intentionally expose themselves to ultraviolet radiation to deepen or accelerate the tan, further increasing their cumulative UV damage and long-term risk of skin cancer. Any cosmetic benefit is outweighed by the potential health risks.”

Amanda Kahn, MD, a board-certified internist in New York City, says Melanotan II should not be considered a “benign beauty shortcut” to use in place of bed or suntanning. “You are pharmacologically stimulating melanocytes, or the pigment producing cells in the skin, which raises safety questions,” she says. “I’ve heard that it can cause new moles, or darkening of existing moles, which raises concerns about melanoma risk. We cannot say melanoma is caused by Melanotan, but the signal is concerning enough that I do not recommend it.”

In her statement, Dr. Sarnoff notes that Melanotan II is not approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and has no established safety data—quite the opposite, in fact. She adds that published medical literature has “raised significant concerns about the potential risks” associated with the peptide, including “rapid changes in moles and pigmented lesions that can make the detection of skin cancer more difficult” and increased risk of melanoma. The Skin Cancer Foundation’s statement also notes that additional reports have linked Melanotan II to “serious adverse health effects” like muscle damage. Dr. Queller adds that other side effects include nausea, vomiting, elevated blood pressure, and flushing.

In addition to that very concerning laundry list of potential side effects, people are currently buying Melanotan II and its peptide peers from unregulated online sources, also known as the gray market. There are a variety of loopholes enabling such purchases. As Allure previously reported, one popular workaround is labeling restricted or banned peptides as “for research only,” then selling them online. As Dr. Kahn previously told us, this is how vendors can “bypass traditional medical and pharmaceutical oversight” and end up on the gray market.

Because restricted peptides like Melanotan II are unregulated, this means there’s no FDA oversight to ensure it’s safe to inject into your body. “This means patients may not know what they’re actually injecting—whether it’s sterile, whether it’s dosed accurately, whether it contains contaminants,” says Dr. Kahn. “My advice is always simple: do not inject a research tanning peptide for cosmetic purposes.”

There are also no studies or data pointing to Melanotan II as an acceptable substitute for suntanning. “We simply don’t have sufficient long-term safety data to consider this an acceptable cosmetic treatment,” notes Dr. Queller.

Dr. Queller says her immediate reaction to Melanotan II is one of concern. “The pursuit of a tan has always carried risks, but injecting an unregulated peptide to achieve a tan raises those risks significantly,” she says. “There’s a misconception that if something is marketed as a peptide or appears in the wellness space, it’s inherently safe. That’s simply not true. Melanotan II has never been approved for cosmetic tanning, and people are essentially experimenting on themselves with products that may contain unknown ingredients, inconsistent dosing, or contaminants.”

If Melanotan II and its cohort are taken off the restricted list at the end of July, will we be seeing it sold at medspas and pharmacies, promising a safer, easier, faster tan? Maybe, but it would take awhile, especially when you factor in that it would still need FDA approval—an extensive, time-consuming process. “It’s worth clarifying that even if a peptide related to this pathway were to receive FDA approval in the future, approval would depend on a specific product, formulation, manufacturing process, indication, and demonstrated safety and efficacy,” explains Dr. Queller. “That should not be interpreted as a blanket endorsement of currently available compounded or black-market tanning peptides. Every product must be evaluated on its own scientific evidence and regulatory review. Until we have robust long-term safety data for cosmetic tanning peptides, I would strongly discourage their use.”

Anetta Reszko, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says that while it’s difficult to predict what will come from the July review, there has been increased interest in expanding access to certain peptides—especially those with established clinical use. (Melanotan II does not have established clinical use.) “I think there is a reasonable possibility that the regulatory landscape surrounding some peptides may become more permissive, particularly within physician-supervised or compounding settings,” she explains. If peptides are appropriately regulated, she says, that could open the doors for better patient care, quality control, and increased safety data collection.

Of course, even if Melanotan II is taken off the restricted list and it becomes easier to access, derms caution that that doesn’t mean it’s safe to use. “Regulatory changes around compounding or prescribing are distinct from demonstrating efficacy and safety for a specific indication,” Dr. Reszko clarifies. “At present, Melanotan II remains unauthorized by the FDA for cosmetic tanning.” From her perspective, she’d be “particularly cautious” if you have numerous or atypical moles, a history of melanoma or skin cancer, or fair skin. But why inject yourself with a peptide when you could just book a spray tan or self tan at home? “A tan, whether achieved naturally or enhanced by a peptide, should never be viewed as a sign of healthy skin,” says Dr. Reszko. “The goal should always be achieving the desired cosmetic appearance while reducing cumulative UV damage and long-term skin cancer risk.”

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