Is There Really a $10 Hair Loss Cure?
Many of us can pinpoint the moment when our hair loss became irrefutable—when we could no longer normalize or rationalize the fallout. For me, it was March of 2019. I’d just turned 42 and was in Washington, DC, for a dermatology conference. I remember standing before a full-length mirror, deciding between slingbacks and boots, when the stark visibility of my scalp stole my focus. In an instant, the hotel lighting rudely exposed a truth I’d been denying for months: My hair was falling out.
Looking back, it’s obvious. The intense shedding, the soaking night sweats, the chronic insomnia—I was in perimenopause. But this was before the rise of Mary Claire Haver and the social-media menoverse. I was clueless about menopause and assumed it was years off. I mean, I’d only stopped nursing my youngest a few years prior. I chalked up my symptoms to advancing age and my on-again, off-again relationship with the Pill, and tried to ignore the hair collecting in my brush. I continued to shed (slowly, steadily) throughout my 40s, but generally avoided dealing with it, save for a false start on Nutrafol and a few relatively unproductive rounds of platelet-rich plasma (PRP). The evidence-backed injections, which rely on the growth factors in our blood to stimulate hair growth, demanded more maintenance (booster treatments every six months) than I could manage. And each session can cost around $1,000.
Why didn’t I do more? Well, to the average passerby, my hair, which is long and dark, probably doesn’t appear to be thinning. I don’t have the telltale Christmas-tree part and my scalp is still fairly well concealed overall. But if I had to guess—based on my cumulative fallout and the comparative density of my ponytails and braids—I’d say that, at 49, I’ve probably lost about half the abundance of hair I had in my 20s. I notice it’s thinner and it worries me, but I probably would’ve been more proactive about treatment if my sparseness were obvious to the world.
Also, in my defense, female hair loss wasn’t fully in the zeitgeist back in 2019. Most women weren’t baring their scalps on Instagram or swapping growth hacks at cocktail parties. It wasn’t until the confluence of the Covid pandemic and the GLP-1 boom set off a veritable hair loss epidemic that we saw a wave of content and conversation devoted to hair loss—more specifically, telogen effluvium, a temporary type of shedding spurred by emotional or physical stressors (including pregnancy, illness, rapid weight loss, and global lockdowns). But even then, many of the hair loss stories reported in the early days of the pandemic—like this one in Allure and this other one in The New York Times and yet another one in The Atlantic—made no mention of oral minoxidil, a drug that’s now considered a go-to for thinning hair. Dermatologists weren’t collectively touting it—not until 2022, at least, when the widely read New York Times article, “An Old Medicine Remedies Hair Loss for Pennies a Day,” officially put oral minoxidil on the public radar.
A patient of Dr. Oma Agbai before and after 10 months on oral minoxidil. (She was using no other hair loss treatments.)
I remember reading the piece, but for whatever reason—kids, deadlines, a slow shedding month—it didn’t immediately compel me to seek a prescription. I think I knew oral minoxidil was a thing, but at the time, the idea of taking a pill for hair loss just felt like a lot. Then I went on menopausal hormone therapy (or MHT, which is the rebrand of HRT or hormone replacement therapy) and my perspective completely shifted.
When talking to doctors and friends who were also navigating estradiol patches, progesterone pills, and testosterone gels in an effort to address the symptoms of menopause, oral minoxidil frequently found its way into the conversation. It seemed to be the drug of choice for middle-aged women with hair loss. Whether I was peer-pressured or influenced, who knows? But one day this past spring, just after turning 49, I was chatting with a nurse practitioner at Midi Health (my longtime OBGYN had just retired and I needed quick advice on adjusting my estradiol dose) and asked if she could prescribe minoxidil to slow my shedding, which had intensified after my periods officially stopped months prior. She obliged, without hesitation.
While there has been a lot of buzz about this hair loss pill, for once the hype isn’t outpacing the science. “Social media has certainly amplified awareness [of minoxidil]—and reduced some of the stigma that has historically prevented women from seeking help [with hair loss]—but the enthusiasm is also being driven by growing scientific evidence,” says Oma Agbai, MD, the founding director of multicultural dermatology and hair restoration at the UC Davis School of Medicine in Sacramento, California. “Over the last five to 10 years, there’s been an explosion of clinical studies demonstrating its efficacy and safety at low doses.” Not only is oral minoxidil “one of the biggest advances in hair loss treatment in the past decade,” she says, it’s one of the most commonly prescribed medications in her hair clinic.
Anna Karp, DO, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, estimates that 30 to 40 percent of her female hair loss patients are currently taking oral minoxidil or discussing it as an option. (She took it herself for a while to counter postpartum shedding after the birth of her second child.) In recent years, she says, women have become “more attuned to their hair and are quicker to seek help” when they experience shedding.
Of course, you don’t need to visit a dermatologist for a minoxidil prescription, given the proliferation of internet pharmacies, notes Robert Finney, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. While some doctors worry about the lack of personalized counseling offered online, they say telehealth has helped mainstream minoxidil by broadening access. For me, it was easy and affordable to get an appointment and prescription through Midi, the menopause-focused platform. (My insurance covered the 30-minute call and I paid less than 10 bucks for the pills.) Libby Windsor, 50, a friend of a friend, got oral minoxidil through Strut Health after dropping 20 pounds on a GLP-1 and realizing months later: “I could see through my hair.” (Was it because of the weight loss? Was it just aging? Perimenopausal hormone fluctuation? She thinks probably all of the above.) Allure contributor Marci Robin, 47, says her foray into oral minoxidil took the form of green apple gummies from Hers. She eventually upgraded to the traditional tablet, at a higher dose, prescribed by her dermatologist. The bottom line, according to board-certified dermatologist (and taker of oral minoxidil) Shereene Idriss, MD: “Oral minoxidil has become more mainstream because, very simply, it works.”
In 1979, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved oral minoxidil, a vasodilator, not to reverse balding, but to reduce blood pressure. When patients started seeing hair growth as a side effect of the medication, drug makers got to work developing a topical version for the scalp. In 1988, it was approved for male pattern hair loss (or androgenetic alopecia) and marketed as Rogaine. The agency approved the same solution for women in 1992—and it remains the only FDA-approved medication for female pattern hair loss.
Decades later, in the mid-2010s, dermatologists began investigating oral minoxidil for hair loss, using smaller doses than those known to affect blood pressure. “The doses for hair are much lower—0.25 to 2.5 milligrams in women—and cardiovascular effects are generally minimal at those doses,” says Dr. Karp. “I like to start at half a pill (1.25 mg) and will sometimes titrate up to one pill (2.5 mg) a day if there are no side effects. Others may start at 0.25 mg and go up.” Using oral minoxidil to treat hair loss is considered an off-label use, since the FDA has never approved the drug for this indication in men or women.
So how, exactly, does a blood pressure medicine grow hair? Whether taken by mouth or rubbed on the scalp, minoxidil causes blood vessels to widen by relaxing the smooth muscle cells within their walls. This increases blood flow and enhances the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicles. While minoxidil’s myriad mechanisms of action haven’t been completely borne out, “we know its hair-growth benefits extend far beyond circulation alone,” Dr. Agbai says. “It keeps hair follicles in the active growth phase for longer, it enlarges follicles that have become miniaturized over time, it stimulates follicle activity, and it increases the production of growth factors that support healthy hair growth.” All told, she adds, “these effects help follicles produce thicker, fuller hairs and can improve overall hair density.”
A patient of Dr. Amelia Hausauer before and 20 months after starting oral minoxidil. This patient also did three monthly PRP treatments, and now does a maintenance session once every six months. (Many people taking oral minoxidil are also pursuing at least one other hair loss treatment, at least initially, to both expedite and maximize their results.)
While you might assume, as I did, that the prescription pill is stronger than the over-the-counter topical foam, “head-to-head studies have shown that low-dose oral minoxidil is actually roughly comparable to, and in some analyses, modestly superior to topical 5% minoxidil,” Dr. Karp says. In practice, however, many dermatologists find that the pill ultimately works better, because “it bypasses the practical issues we see with topical formulations,” says Dr. Idriss. Foams can be hard to apply uniformly. They may be sticky or slick, leaving hair limp, stringy, and dirty-looking. They can irritate the scalp, causing itching, stinging, dryness, and flaking.
When Dr. Idriss saw her hair thinning after having her first child, she picked up a minoxidil foam. “It worked, but I developed a sensitivity to it,” she says
- Last
- July, 22
-
- July, 21
-
-
-
-
-
- July, 20
-
-
-
-
- July, 17
-
- July, 16
-
-
- July, 15
-
- July, 14
-
-
- July, 13
-
-
-
News by day
23 of July 2026