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Sun-In Finds a New Generation of Fans

allure.com

Sun-In Finds a New Generation of Fans

A quick Google search for “Is Sun-In back in style?” pulls up headlines from last month, last year, and the last decade. Fashion magazines recommended it through the 2010s. Your mom probably used it in the ’80s. For me and fellow elder millennials, it was a middle school gateway to 40-volume bleach. And right now, a new generation of UV enthusiasts (possibly the same ones who are bringing back tanning despite the very well-documented risks of skin cancer) is spraying it in and lying out, waiting for the sun to do its thing.

According to the Spate Popularity Index, which pulls data from Google searches, TikTok views, and Instagram posts, interest in Sun-In is up 32% year-over-year, with another 19% of growth predicted in the next 12 months. Searches about hair-lightening sprays overall are up 61%, with the conversation happening almost entirely on Google, which signals buying intent. Unsurprisingly, the most common related searches are before-and-afters: People want proof the product works before they commit.

But Sun-In’s modern renaissance raises a bigger question: At a time when nearly any beauty goal is achievable with the right tools and tech, why is a $4 bottle of drugstore hair tonic still the product we keep reaching for, especially when the results are far from guaranteed?

Sun-In is a hydrogen peroxide-based spray-on lightener that is activated with heat. Spritz it in, go outside, or use a hair dryer, and watch your hair gradually lighten over hours, days, or weeks. The critical caveat is that it usually works as intended only on naturally blonde or light brunette hair. On darker hair, you probably won’t get blonde. You’re most likely going to get red or orange.

“Hair lighteners work by oxidizing melanin. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down the melanin in the hair shaft, and heat activates that process,” explains Izabela Nowak, PhD, a cosmetic chemist and head of the applied chemistry department at Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, Poland.

“The orange effect occurs when the pigment is not fully oxidized,” adds Dr. Nowak. “Time in the sun is critical, and so is your starting color. Dark hair contains more eumelanin, which is harder to lift. Full oxidation is less likely to occur, and the result is often warm, reddish pigments rather than true blonde."

Also on the ingredient list is citrus limon (lemon) juice, which “should help close the hair cuticle after oxidation,” Dr. Nowak explains, in addition to helping lighten on its own. Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract “has a minor lightening effect [on light hair, not dark]; here, it mostly just adds shine.” And nourishing botanicals like aloe, calendula, and linseed.

It’s worth noting that the “bleach-free” claim on the bottle is, as Dr. Nowak puts it, a half-truth at best. “Hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent. While traditional hair dyes usually pair it with alkaline accelerators not present in this formula [those open up the hair shaft, accelerating the dyeing], hydrogen peroxide itself is present. It’s a classic oxidizing agent. This isn’t mentioned at all in the product description.”

Where trends lead, the market follows. While the new class of spray lighteners has yet to achieve Sun-In’s cult status, the competition is real. Standouts include Sun Bum Blonde Hair Lightener ($17), which blends the same hydrogen peroxide base with pineapple and lemon, and Oribe Bright Blonde Sun Lightening Mist ($38), which is explicitly peroxide-free. The formula features lemon, chamomile, and a cocktail of fruit oils and botanicals with added UV protection. “There's no bleaching effect, and it's much less aggressive,” brand educator Adam Livermore explained when it launched in 2021. “Think of it like a brightness booster, like getting an extra shot of espresso in your coffee.”

Which raises a fair question: What does the presence of peroxide cost your hair? Researchers using transmission electron microscopy have found that bleaching damages hair well beyond the surface in a process that doesn’t reverse, breaking down structure in both the cuticle and the underlying cortex, including the disulfide bonds that give hair its strength. While the peroxide exposure from Sun-In and similar products is nowhere near what salon-strength bleach delivers, that "effortless" sun-streaked look is still the result of a real chemical reaction. For those trying to go brighter while preserving hair health, a peroxide-free formula like Oribe’s might be the way to go. (Or, you’re better off with straight lemon juice.)

What makes Sun-In unique as beauty products go is that it works best outside. Ideally, when you’re horizontal. Preferably not looking at your phone. And definitely when you’re wearing sunscreen. It’s a ritual that can’t be rushed, fine-tuned, or administered by a professional. Well, it could be, but it wouldn’t make a difference. And perhaps that’s part of the appeal.

The last decade of beauty has been defined by relentless perfectionism: $400 blowdryers, $600 highlights, vampire facials, salmon sperm serums, and spa treatments born in a chemistry lab. We’re very good at controlling outcomes. We also seem to have gotten very tired of it.

The same generation raised in the culture of control is now reaching, conspicuously, for the opposite. Sourdough, flip phones, and film photography are permanent fixtures. House parties are finally back. The analog turn is more than an aesthetic reaction; it’s exhaustion talking. In an over-optimized, outcome-obsessed world, there’s something almost radical about choosing a process that all but promises an uncertain result.

A strand test first, always. The end result depends heavily on your starting color, and the only way to know how your hair will respond is to test a small section. Note that Sun-In is not recommended for dyed hair. “Hydrogen peroxide can react with dye from a previous coloring and create a new pigment within the hair shaft,” warns Dr. Nowak. “You might be surprised and end up with black lowlights instead!”

Start with less product than you think you need and build across sessions. Heat helps; a blow dryer will activate it if you’re not spending time outdoors. If your hair is dark brown or black, maybe avoid it unless you don’t mind the possibility of orange or brassy tones. If you’re somewhere in the light brunette middle, go slowly and give your hair extra TLC between rounds. Purple shampoos and a deep conditioning mask could go a long way. The results that tend to look the most natural are usually the ones that took the longest to achieve.

For cash-strapped preteens whose parents banned hair dye, it’s a shortcut to achieving those sunkissed strands. For nostalgic adults on TikTok, it’s a way to relive what we remember as simpler times, but also reclaim some agency. When we can have almost anything customized and automated, from a 12-step skin routine to an AI life partner, there’s something undoubtedly charming about Sun-In’s analog uncertainties.

You can go to the salon and drop half a paycheck on a perfectly calibrated balayage. Or you can go to Target, buy a $4 bottle of Sun-In, spray it into your hair (alongside SPF from head-to-toe, reapplied every two hours), and go lie in the grass and yap with your bestie as it shade-shifts.

It’s summer. What sounds more fun?

Keep reading for more on current summer beauty trends:

Now, watch a peek behind the scenes on the set of Elle:

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