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I distinctly remember meeting Gianluca Russo for the first time at a Project Runway taping several years ago. Back then, he was a young reporter whose enthusiasm for fashion was palpable. Ever since, he’s zeroed in on a specific beat: plus-size fashion. His new book, The Power of Plus, out today, is a natural extension of that reporting, offering an honest take on both the strides the industry has made—and the long way that it still has to go—when it comes to representing a range of body types. In its pages, he interviews everyone from early curve pioneers like Emme to current stars such as Nadia Aboulhosn, Candice Huffine, Yumi Nu, and Iskra Lawrence. I spoke to Russo about fashion’s internalized fatphobia, tokenism on the runway, and his hopes for the future of size equality.