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Couture is planting its feet firmly in the past. For a few years, the medium has been advancing an argument for why it still makes sense in the 2020s; see: last season’s futuristic, sci-fi take and the prior season’s newcomer-filled schedule and playful offerings. But that mood has ceded to a fall 2022 season that riffs on the medium’s midcentury Funny Face heyday. Fashion is always going to reflect the times, and can’t exist outside them, as much as it might like to. But these collections seemed to contain nostalgia for a time before political statement-making was de rigueur on the runway. It was not escapism so much as the idea that, sometimes, creating something beautiful can itself be political, a small act of resistance in an ugly world.
