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You're probably familiar with the time-honored tradition of TikTok beauty, in which nostalgic trends are 'discovered' and introduced to Gen Z like they were created just yesterday. It's the very definition of multi-generational entertainment — the kids get to experiment with something new every day, and it's fun for the olds to see a fresh iteration of their old looks. And for better or worse, there can also be quite a bit of schadenfreude when watching a new generation repeat some of our beauty mistakes, including overdrawn lips and razor-edge brows.
One TikTok trend, however, is tripping me up. It seems familiar yet super fresh all at once, and I just can't put a finger on its provenance. The medium wolf cut is an update to 2021's nostalgic trend, and as the name suggests, is executed on medium-length hair. It's giving Stevie Nicks circa 1970, with some early ‘90s Jon Bon Jovi energy thrown in. Before ending up on TikTok, it's been on tour with Miley Cyrus, Billie Eilish, and Taylor Swift. It has such varied influences that experts are needed to properly ID it.
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Hair legend Sally Hershberger set the record straight. "The medium wolf cut is a hybrid cut, combining the choppy layers of a shag with the length and texture of a mullet on medium length hair," she says. This hybrid nature is why it looks to an untrained eye like the similar cuts from which it is derived, but Hershberger says, "it's absolutely a different look and style." The wolf cut is it's own beast, if you will.
Interestingly, hairstylists see a lot of different eras in this cut. For hairstylist Adam Federico, R+Co's vice president of technical development, education, this cut's shag-based look has a distinctly ‘70s vibe. Franck Izquierdo, cofounder of IGK Hair Care, says the extra layered, edgy pieces are very reminiscent of the grunge scene of the ’90s, while Miami-based hairstylist Michelle O'Connor, who is Matrix's global artistic director, is getting whiffs of the 2000s emo scene.
That might explain why it's endured over the decades, morphing into an of-the-moment version of itself with each generation, including Gen Z. Everyone from Keke Palmer and Rita Ora to Maisie Williams have wolfed it down.
Castillo Bataille, a Los Angeles-based hairstylist and Matrix brand ambassador explains the difference between the medium wolf and its cousin, which went viral last year. "This cut starts around the shoulders and works its way up to the cheekbones, or eyes, with layers that follow around the head," Bataille says. "The original wolf cut mainly focused on the face and just below the jaw."
On medium-length hair, the wolf cut morphs into a subtler version, because the top and bottom layers are more blended, explains Hershberger. "The medium length works better for some people because the cut is more blended and less stylized than on shorter lengths," she explains. "The medium wolf cut is all about layering and amplifying volume, especially at the crown."
Hairstylists love it for its versatility, and its best-of-both-worlds vibe. "It allows you to wear a longer style while still achieving the edgy shag look around the face," says Izquierdo. Though it's best worn in an untamed, unstyled way to bring out its lupine vibe, it's actually still long enough to style differently for occasions where you might want something more contained.
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"I've given this look to lots of clients recently — it's very hot," says Hershberger. The reasons for that are many, but a big factor is the after-effect of the pandemic. She finds that clients are really embracing their natural texture, and the medium length wolf cut works with each person's unique hair texture rather than against it. "2022 is all about texture and movement, and the medium wolf plays into that by embracing your natural hair texture, and amplifying soft waves and curls," she adds.
Bataille also thinks that people want an easy hairstyle where they have to perform as little maintenance as possible. "I believe this style is trending now because post-pandemic has made room for more air-dried hairstyles that require less heat and more texture with little to no effort," he says.
But apart from the pandemic, it's possible that we're watching hair history in the making, because the wolf could go down as the look of this generation. "Every generation has a signature haircut. For Gen X it was the mullet, for millennials it was the lob, and now, it’s the wolf cut for Gen Z," says O'Connor. She thinks the wolf's gender-fluid and inclusive qualities make it a contender for this high honor. "It's very nonbinary and gives a free, effortless hair vibe that can be worn on curly or straight hair."
Herhsberger says the medium version works well on straight, wavy, and curly hair types, but it looks best on hair that is thick and naturally textured with waves and curls because that built-in volume and movement complement the heavy layers of the cut.
While curls and coils have the perfect hair patterns to wear the wolf cut, O'Connor says to choose your stylist with care. "Curly and coily hair shrinks, so it's important to cut these hair types dry," she says. Shaping the hair dry in its undisturbed curly state will ensure the layers land where they are meant to.
When it comes to face shapes, the medium wolf works magic on round, diamond, or oval-shaped faces. Bataille says the cut will enhance movement and texture, and accentuate the eyes, cheekbones, and jawline.
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Federico says the only people he would advise to shy away from this style are those with very thin, fine hair, as a bit of density is needed to support the ample layering. However, if finer hair types have their heart set on it, O'Connor advises asking a stylist to put a lot of texture into the haircut by using a razor or texturizing shears to create movement and that lived-in look and feel.
There can be some more red flags. Izquierdo cautions those with round or square face shapes to go a bit longer, as shorter wolf cuts might overly dramatize the jawline. Bataille believes this hairstyle might crowd small or long faces by taking up too much real estate. And if you prefer a cleaner and sleeker look, or like to pull your hair into a pony and can't stand when layers fall out, then this might not be the style for you. Also, O'Connor says that you want your hair to be at lower neck length at least. Anything shorter than that and the cut will not work.
Bataille recommends you go into your appointment armed with this information: define the length that you want your medium wolf cut to be at. Then, describe the type of fringe you want (curtain bangs, wispy bangs, or straight across). Bring photos and describe how short you're willing to go with the layers. A skilled stylist should be able to create layers throughout the top of the head, without you losing too much length.
Start with some in-shower pre-prep with texture and curl-defining hair care like Best of Beauty-winning Nexxus Curl Define Shampoo and Conditioner to bring out the natural wave that's already in the hair.
Since this style needs a bit of va-voom at the crown, those with naturally wavy or curly texture can start by blow drying or diffusing at the root. For finer or straighter hair, Izquierdo recommends creating volume at the root and then using a medium or large barreled curling iron to create waves throughout the layers.
Since texture is the key to getting the most out of this moment, texturizing sprays can be a go-to — consider using Best of Beauty-winning options like Sexy Hair Healthy Sexy Hair Surfrider Dry Texture Spray or Amika Un.Done Volume and Matte Texture Spray. After application, Bataille likes to rake his fingers through his hair while scrunching and twisting strands for extra volume.
In the medium wolf, Gen Z has discovered a look as wild, free, and unfettered as trending hairstyles can get — we'll take it.
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